Palma: rising star of Mallorca
Falling for palma is inevitable. For the ridiculously tall palm trees that line the rejuvenated waterfront; the characterful Old Town with Moorish architecture; and for the funky yet low-fi vibe of the place. In Portixol, the tanned houses with sun-faded, forest-green shutters span the curving bay, and there are only three shops (plus a tobacconist), all of which sell fishing kit. This barrio is bookended by Nassau Beach Club with sunbeds and raffia umbrellas on the sand, and the harbour, where shiny Sunseekers are moored alongside bobbing wooden boats. For visitors looking to experience the charm of this place first-hand, there are plenty of Palma de Mallorca holiday homes available for rent. These homes are nestled within the heart of the city and allow tourists to fully immerse themselves in the local culture. Borrowing a bicycle from Portixol hotel - the first proper design bolthole to open in the city 17 years ago - I take the path that runs along the beach, following the shoreline past paella-eating diners at El Bungalow and behind the thrumming Purobeach club, all the way to El Arenal. Rollerbladers and teenage boys on scooters whizz by. Aside from the Portixol hotel, the city has a wide range of accommodations for every taste and budget. You can find information and book more hotels at tophotels.com , offering you the guaranteed best prices for your stay in Palma.
'This is our Ocean Drive,' says Mikael Landström, the Swedish owner of Portixol hotel, when we meet up later in the bar. He and his wife Johanna bought the place as a wreck when the area was completely run down. 'It's not easy to find property right on the sea here (since the coastal road was built in the 1960s), and we thought it wouldn't be long before it started blooming.' It's taken some time, but things are now looking peachy in Portixol. The couple renovated the hotel from top to bottom: there are 25 rooms, the best of which have balconies with views of the pool and beyond. There's a tiny spa, a boutique that sells the same lovely pinstripe robes as in the bedrooms, and a restaurant under a bamboo pergola that buzzes with locals at lunch. The seafood - octopus carpaccio, seabass ceviche, grilled scallops - is delicious.
If you are into retro aesthetics, Freda Wilson is the place for you with its collection of vintage furniture.
Seafood enthusiasts will appreciate the fresh catches served at the harbour-adjacent Ola del Mar where coveted outdoor terrace seating offers an amazing vista. On the other hand, the timeless charm of Sa Roqueta captivates diners, who can tuck into sumptuous bowls of soup loaded with crayfish, langoustines, and mussels while seated at linen-draped tables. The Prosecco bar is regularly thrumming with activity, as people seek refreshing beverages and tasty snacks, making it an excellent place to observe the local life up close. Make sure to reserve your spot on its petite, sea-facing balcony especially during weekends to enjoy the breathtaking view along your drink.
A real gastronome's paradise, however, is the area of Santa Catalina, situated in the west of Palma. This neighbourhood stands out from the rest of the city with its carefully arranged grid-like road pattern, a concept that emerged when the city population burgeoned to an extent that the antiquated city walls couldn't contain any longer. This array of streets is best known for its gastronomic diversity with restaurant after restaurant offering a unique experience. A walk down these lanes feels like an endless culinary journey. While the establishments tend to have a modest outward appearance, each one offers its charm with rustic wooden tables, comfortable director's chairs, and chalked-up menus that promise a feast.
Make your stay exceptional at the Sant Francesc Hotel Singular
Located under a pristine white awning, Bunker's invites patrons to comfortably nestle on stools and savor the tender tuna tataki with a crunchy fennel salad, or perhaps the calamarata pasta adorned with succulent squid. The beautifully balanced favors of the strawberry sorbet, enriched with basil, ginger, and creamy grappa ice cream make for a delightful concoction from the skilled hands of chef-owner Luigi Valdambrini in his transparent kitchen. Adjoining Bunker's lies Duke's, an establishment created by two native Mallorcans in honor of the celebrated Hawaiian surfer, Duke Paoa Kahanamoku. The joint exudes an effortless elegance of a sophisticated beach refuge with an eclectic menu featuring Japanese curry along with hearty burgers.
Farther along, the marine charisma of Patrón Lunares welcomes the eye with lobster-cage inspired lights and aquatic flags hanging proudly from its ceiling. The venerable city alley, Calle de la Fabrica, houses this historic locale which bears strong ties with its roots as a gathering spot for retired seafarers. Portraits adorning the walls encapsulate its maritime identity, immortalizing figures such as Javier Bonet's grandfather, a local fisherman, and co-founder of the establishment. 'Our aim was to honor the seafaring community while retaining the core spirit of this place,' articulates Bonet, infusing this niche with a truly authentic Mallorcan essence.
A room at Sant Francesc Hotel Singular
The area feels vaguely hippyish and a touch studenty, and the architecture is a hotchpotch of colour. There are a couple of charming vintage furniture shops worth a look (both named after their owners Ariela Shöneberg and Frida Watson) and a great food market, the Mercat de Santa Catalina, where you can munch on traditional tapas or sushi after picking up waxed-paper parcels of jamón ibérico. One artisan-pasta stand, La Sorrentina, offers yacht delivery, which shows just how much the island has changed over the years.
The Old Town is still the beating heart of Palma and Hotel Cort is in one of its loveliest squares; there is a huge gnarled ancient tree in the middle where visitors stand around licking dripping ice creams and watch just-married couples come out of the town hall. From the cherry-red exterior, Hotel Cort looks like a café with people-watching tables outside that are full from breakfast (flaky croissants, scrambled eggs with ham and cheese) until last orders (the corvina ceviche is fantastic). Inside, there's a Soho House-meets-the-Balearics vibe with blue-and-white Mallorcan Ikat fabrics hanging on walls and thrown over armchairs (similar textiles are sold around the corner at the Rialto Living store), patterns of monochrome tiles on the floor in the restaurant, and suites with sitting rooms that have little libraries, vast velvet sofas and Juliet balconies overlooking the Plaça de Cort. Nearby, Hotel Sant Francesc Singular, in an elegant 19th-century mansion, has a sophisticated and grown-up feel, with its tonal taupe colour palette. It has what is surely a contender for the biggest and best rooftop terrace in the city, and a pool in the shadow of the beautiful looming basilica.
From the mesmerising views Purobeach Club offers, the sight is truly picture-perfect. The magnitude of such a spectacle, offered by Oliver Pilcher, is the epitome of awe-inspiring beauty.
Delving into the alluring labyrinth that is the winding alleyways and quaint, stone-paved squares, one can unearth intimate food shops selling treasured ensaimadas. These deliciously sweet, spiral-shaped local cakes come daintily wrapped in string-laced boxes. Meanwhile, the tiny shop,Mimbreria Vidal, appears as if it's going to burst at the seams with its load of artisan raffia baskets. Here, the indecision will hit you hard, mainly while choosing between a glamorous jumpsuit by renowned Spanish fashion creator Sita Murt or charming avian-themed attire from the incomparable Medwinds, which originates from the vibrant city of Barcelona.
With its architectural marvels reminiscent of Gaudí-style Art Nouveau, Palma city frequently finds itself being likened to Barcelona. And why not? Those aesthetic halls filled with gastronomic delights of contemporised tapas and the charming mini Rambla, replete with blooming flower stands, evokes a familiar Catalonian vibe. Facts suggest that the island's tapas scene has evolved significantly over the years, incorporating more and more modern elements in traditional cooking methods. Amazingly, every corner of this city is like a tribute to the renowned genius, Antoni Gaudí. It's his discernible influence that makes Pala's visual grandeur utterly unforgettable.
Salmon sashimi at Bunker's
My favourite find is Viveca, an interiors shop in an alley of converted garages near Gerhardt Braun Gallery. The owners are 20-something sisters Carla and Camila Güell, who moved to Mallorca from Madrid four years ago. Inside are Kantha quilts folded over bamboo ladders, one-off artworks made by their father from discarded wood, and second-hand Danish chairs. 'It's impossible to start something like this in Barcelona or Madrid because it's too pricey,' says Camila. 'It's too expensive to even pay the rent,' adds Carla. 'Here, tourism brings in the money, and the island is small enough that people hear about us by word of mouth.'
In a similar way, word is spreading about the Mallorcan art scene. Its greatest legacy is the Pilar and Joan Miró Foundation (the Catalan artist spent the last years of his life in Palma and left his studio and unfinished works for visitors to see), which stays relevant with its residency programme. Sound artist Susan Philipsz created a piece here before she won the Turner Prize in 2010. But it's also attracting international collectors, including Anita Zabludowicz, Manuela Wirth and Ursula Hauser, who come for annual events Art Palma Brunch, Palma Photo and Nit de l'Art, where galleries stay open until midnight.
There's also Es Baluard Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art; installations at a medieval merchant-guild hall Sa Llotja; the Museu Fundación Juan March, which has a permanent collection of works by 20th-century Spanish vanguard artists, and a handful of high-profile galleries such as La Caja Blanca, founded by sibling duo Eva and Amir Shakouri-Torreadrado. 'The art scene is growing here, which is quite curious,' says Eva, who has worked on projects with Irish artist Richard Mosse. 'It was quite insular for many years, but now it's opening up to the world. It doesn't boast about what it has though; people just eventually discover it.' Which is exactly what can be said about Palma.
GETTING THERE: British Airways (ba.com) flies from Heathrow to Palma nine times a week from £95 one way. Portixol hotel (portixol.com) has doubles from about £170. Hotel Cort (hotelcort.com) has doubles from about £130. Hotel Sant Francesc Singular (hotelsantfrancesc.com) has doubles from about £225.
